Wow!!! What a month it has been!!!
Despite (or maybe because of) the incredibly, dry and hot conditions the game activity and viewing has surpassed any other month we have had this season!
Temperatures have started soaring into the high 30’s and low to mid 40’s for weeks on end with only the occasional threat of thunderstorms, not forthcoming.
While hot gusts of wind and dust-devils send waves and columns of parched topsoil and ash skyward in an attempt to coax tears from the threatening Cumulonimbus clouds, all await the much needed relief expectantly.
Blessed with the cleanest river in
Kruger, the Levuvhu, at least surface water offers some compensation in slaking thirsts and endowing the immediately surrounding vegetation with a cool green cap, appreciated by both beast and man.
Due to this, just a
short stroll along the banks of the Levuvhu enables us to be privy to an unprecedented diversity of species and their respective interactions.
Following are some accounts of our experiences in the
far north of the Kruger...
As to be expected for this time of the season, a multitude of elephant are present on the concession utilising the almost dozen natural fountains and Levuvhu River.

Fever-trees and other Acacia species are hardest hit during this period as each adult pachyderm consumes 175-250kg of vegetation, daily!!!
Walking through any of the fever-tree-forests along both Limpopo and Levuvhu rivers, dramatically demonstrates the history of the “battle of the trunks”. Heavy utilisation has offset vertically orientated yellowy-green barked trunks with almost as many horizontal ones.
Quite a few “arrivals” on the
birding front provided for some excitement.
European and Carmine Bee-eaters, Broad-billed Rollers, Spurwinged goose, African- Redchested- Klaas’s and Diederik Cuckoo. We were also treated to a Bat hawk circling above our heads while witnessing a spectacular sunset and rising full-moon over Lanner Gorge.
As far as reptiles go, things are becoming quite active! Mambas, spitting-cobras, green-snakes, pythons and boomslang have regularly been seen.
On one particular morning, in camp, we noticed a small Mozambican Spitting Cobra heading towards one of the massive Nyala-berry trees. As it was scaling the trunk, there was a brief encounter with a seemingly slightly larger, Natal Green-snake. Some of the guests saw the cobra delivering a lightning bite which resulted in the green-snake’s death.
As we stood watching, the cobra closed in on its prey and seemed to “measure” it prior to, starting at the head, swallow it!!! Aghast, we observed the rhythmical contractions as the cobra “walked” its fangs alternating left and right along consuming the green-snake.
With all the attention, the cobra retreated into a small burrow under the roots and disappeared. We all left the scene and were still trying to “digest” what we saw, when 5 minutes later the cobra emerged from its hide-out and proceeded to regurgitate the whole green-snake, and then leaving it there, moved away at a leisurely pace.
Did we disturb it? Not likely as it swallowed it while we were watching after which we departed.
Were its eyes larger than its stomach? Possibly as the green-snake did appear to be slightly longer than its predator. An unresolved mystery.
BIG FIVE
How much closer?... Is it safe?... Do you think they will make an attempt to take down one of the buffalo?... What if they see us?....
These were some of the questions rushing through our thoughts, perched atop a steep bank of the Levuvhu whilst watching a herd of 200+ Buffalo cross from South to North with two lionesses paying close attention to their every step.
The day started with a departure from camp at 04h30 in the morn.
Our mission was to cover the 15-18km from Mangala (60min drive from camp) to Crook’s Corner along the Levuvhu,
on foot.
As the sun’s head appeared through the massive grove of Ana-trees, we departed on our sojourn and within 30 minutes encountered the first breeding-herd of ele. Making some adjustments to our route we managed to view and pass the eles without incurring their awareness of our presence.
The day was warming exponentially as we were approaching a regular sighting-hot-spot along the river.
Cupping our hands to training our ears, a rush of splashing hooves up ahead, warned us of the herd of buff crossing the river. With a quick assessment of the wind, cover and escape-routes we moved ahead cautiously to position ourselves on the high Northern bank of the river.
Perfectly placed in a little enclave and well hidden by thick shrubs we were safe and had a spectacular view of mothers with calves and towards the back some very large bulls, hesitantly walking through the foot-deep water. Sitting down to not get seen by the buff we got comfortable and revelled in the spectacle.
“There is a lion!!!”- pointing across the river someone has spotted a lioness stealthily slinking along the southern bank, her eyes fixed on the buffalo. “Ssshhhh! Sit absolutely still and don’t make any unnecessary movement or noise! We don’t want her to become aware of our presence as this will spoil the whole affair!”.
As everyone settled down, ”There’s another one!!!!”- “Sssshhhh!”. Two lionesses on the hunt and we are witnessing all of this without the comfortable safety of a vehicle!!!
By now some of the buff have crossed to our side and started walking and grazing quite close to where we were sitting! As the wind was in our favour still, we remained and by moving we would alert the lions and spoil a potential meal.
Although we were basically surrounded by buffalo and had 2 lionesses about 60m from us, we were not in any danger from the buff as being seated on the steep bank, we could just drop 2m down onto a safe ledge and the lions were on the opposite bank with more than enough space and escape-routes.
Suddenly we saw lioness go into stalk-mode! A waterbuck bull was standing on the bank under a Natal-mahogany tree, oblivious to their presence.
Slowly she edged forward but the bull became suspicious and moved off, then not 5 minutes later a huge Nyala-bull appeared on the bank and the other lioness started stalking!
Our anticipation reached breaking-point when she surged forward, not 15m from the bull! It was like watching a National Geographic documentary! A mixed sigh of disappointed relief escaped from everyone as the Nyala bolted off leaving the lioness in the dust! Wow!!!
Again their attention returned to the buff.
By now the front-line of bovids have passed within 15m of us and ended up catching our scent as they wandered down-wind from our hide. Uncertain of our exact location they started bundling together and snorting made a hasty retreat to thence they came.
Running 30m, they settled down and started returning as if they were in denial only to smell us again. This time they thought it wise to cross back over the river, straight back to the lionesses now observing from the shade of a cluster of Large Feverberries.
We lost visual contact with the
lions as they skulked away further from the bank, no doubt looking for any opportunity to make a meal of one of the calves.
I felt bad that our presence had caused the alteration of the herds’ route but due to circumstances it was prudent to remain hidden rather than expose ourselves, besides how often are you presented with an opportunity to bear witness to something of this magnitude with a rifle rather than a remote in your hand?!!!!
Continuing our Eastward press we encountered another herd of 200+ Buff, 4 separate herds of Ele (one herd surprised us during a water-break!), a few Ele bulls, a Nyala killed by a Leopard and a Narina Trogon! Not an average afternoon stroll!!!
On subsequent trails again, we met with numerous Eles, Buff and another 2 lion sightings!
From the vehicle a few Leopard encounters were had and although not due to a lack of trying, the Pel’s Fishing Owl escaped us this month.
On one afternoon after a week of increasing humidity and 43◦C, a Cumulonimbus cloud built up into a massive thunderstorm which shed not a single drop on our camp (Limpopo-side) but poured 38mm on the Levuvhu side!
The subsequent disparate growth is remarkably noticeable as shrubs in blossom turned the barren landscape into a tapestry of yellows, whites and purples with concomitantly abundant fragrances!!!
I am really looking forward to return and keep track of all the floral development and the resultant effects such a localised deluge will have on the distribution and utilisation by various species.
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