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Steve and Michelle Henley have been following the progress of male tusker Mac in his annual migration from the far north of the Kruger into the Private Game Reserves of the sougth in search of a mate.

Part of BBC Radio 4's World on the Move programme, you can read the reports of this epic musth-inspired trek online on the BBC website.

We will see if we can't catch up with Steve and Michelle at the end of the series and have a chat about what is a fabulous wilderness tracking exercise.

Labels: elephants, makuleke, migration, pafuri

Wow!!! What a month it has been!!!

Despite (or maybe because of) the incredibly, dry and hot conditions the game activity and viewing has surpassed any other month we have had this season!

Temperatures have started soaring into the high 30’s and low to mid 40’s for weeks on end with only the occasional threat of thunderstorms, not forthcoming.

While hot gusts of wind and dust-devils send waves and columns of parched topsoil and ash skyward in an attempt to coax tears from the threatening Cumulonimbus clouds, all await the much needed relief expectantly.

Blessed with the cleanest river in Kruger, the Levuvhu, at least surface water offers some compensation in slaking thirsts and endowing the immediately surrounding vegetation with a cool green cap, appreciated by both beast and man.

Due to this, just a short stroll along the banks of the Levuvhu enables us to be privy to an unprecedented diversity of species and their respective interactions.

Following are some accounts of our experiences in the far north of the Kruger...

As to be expected for this time of the season, a multitude of elephant are present on the concession utilising the almost dozen natural fountains and Levuvhu River.



Fever-trees and other Acacia species are hardest hit during this period as each adult pachyderm consumes 175-250kg of vegetation, daily!!! Walking through any of the fever-tree-forests along both Limpopo and Levuvhu rivers, dramatically demonstrates the history of the “battle of the trunks”. Heavy utilisation has offset vertically orientated yellowy-green barked trunks with almost as many horizontal ones.

Quite a few “arrivals” on the birding front provided for some excitement.

European and Carmine Bee-eaters, Broad-billed Rollers, Spurwinged goose, African- Redchested- Klaas’s and Diederik Cuckoo. We were also treated to a Bat hawk circling above our heads while witnessing a spectacular sunset and rising full-moon over Lanner Gorge.

As far as reptiles go, things are becoming quite active! Mambas, spitting-cobras, green-snakes, pythons and boomslang have regularly been seen.

On one particular morning, in camp, we noticed a small Mozambican Spitting Cobra heading towards one of the massive Nyala-berry trees. As it was scaling the trunk, there was a brief encounter with a seemingly slightly larger, Natal Green-snake. Some of the guests saw the cobra delivering a lightning bite which resulted in the green-snake’s death.

As we stood watching, the cobra closed in on its prey and seemed to “measure” it prior to, starting at the head, swallow it!!! Aghast, we observed the rhythmical contractions as the cobra “walked” its fangs alternating left and right along consuming the green-snake.

With all the attention, the cobra retreated into a small burrow under the roots and disappeared. We all left the scene and were still trying to “digest” what we saw, when 5 minutes later the cobra emerged from its hide-out and proceeded to regurgitate the whole green-snake, and then leaving it there, moved away at a leisurely pace.

Did we disturb it? Not likely as it swallowed it while we were watching after which we departed.

Were its eyes larger than its stomach? Possibly as the green-snake did appear to be slightly longer than its predator. An unresolved mystery.

BIG FIVE

How much closer?... Is it safe?... Do you think they will make an attempt to take down one of the buffalo?... What if they see us?....

These were some of the questions rushing through our thoughts, perched atop a steep bank of the Levuvhu whilst watching a herd of 200+ Buffalo cross from South to North with two lionesses paying close attention to their every step.

The day started with a departure from camp at 04h30 in the morn.

Our mission was to cover the 15-18km from Mangala (60min drive from camp) to Crook’s Corner along the Levuvhu, on foot.

As the sun’s head appeared through the massive grove of Ana-trees, we departed on our sojourn and within 30 minutes encountered the first breeding-herd of ele. Making some adjustments to our route we managed to view and pass the eles without incurring their awareness of our presence.

The day was warming exponentially as we were approaching a regular sighting-hot-spot along the river.

Cupping our hands to training our ears, a rush of splashing hooves up ahead, warned us of the herd of buff crossing the river. With a quick assessment of the wind, cover and escape-routes we moved ahead cautiously to position ourselves on the high Northern bank of the river.

Perfectly placed in a little enclave and well hidden by thick shrubs we were safe and had a spectacular view of mothers with calves and towards the back some very large bulls, hesitantly walking through the foot-deep water. Sitting down to not get seen by the buff we got comfortable and revelled in the spectacle.

“There is a lion!!!”- pointing across the river someone has spotted a lioness stealthily slinking along the southern bank, her eyes fixed on the buffalo. “Ssshhhh! Sit absolutely still and don’t make any unnecessary movement or noise! We don’t want her to become aware of our presence as this will spoil the whole affair!”.

As everyone settled down, ”There’s another one!!!!”- “Sssshhhh!”. Two lionesses on the hunt and we are witnessing all of this without the comfortable safety of a vehicle!!!

By now some of the buff have crossed to our side and started walking and grazing quite close to where we were sitting! As the wind was in our favour still, we remained and by moving we would alert the lions and spoil a potential meal.

Although we were basically surrounded by buffalo and had 2 lionesses about 60m from us, we were not in any danger from the buff as being seated on the steep bank, we could just drop 2m down onto a safe ledge and the lions were on the opposite bank with more than enough space and escape-routes.

Suddenly we saw lioness go into stalk-mode! A waterbuck bull was standing on the bank under a Natal-mahogany tree, oblivious to their presence.

Slowly she edged forward but the bull became suspicious and moved off, then not 5 minutes later a huge Nyala-bull appeared on the bank and the other lioness started stalking!

Our anticipation reached breaking-point when she surged forward, not 15m from the bull! It was like watching a National Geographic documentary! A mixed sigh of disappointed relief escaped from everyone as the Nyala bolted off leaving the lioness in the dust! Wow!!!

Again their attention returned to the buff.

By now the front-line of bovids have passed within 15m of us and ended up catching our scent as they wandered down-wind from our hide. Uncertain of our exact location they started bundling together and snorting made a hasty retreat to thence they came.

Running 30m, they settled down and started returning as if they were in denial only to smell us again. This time they thought it wise to cross back over the river, straight back to the lionesses now observing from the shade of a cluster of Large Feverberries.

We lost visual contact with the lions as they skulked away further from the bank, no doubt looking for any opportunity to make a meal of one of the calves.

I felt bad that our presence had caused the alteration of the herds’ route but due to circumstances it was prudent to remain hidden rather than expose ourselves, besides how often are you presented with an opportunity to bear witness to something of this magnitude with a rifle rather than a remote in your hand?!!!!

Continuing our Eastward press we encountered another herd of 200+ Buff, 4 separate herds of Ele (one herd surprised us during a water-break!), a few Ele bulls, a Nyala killed by a Leopard and a Narina Trogon! Not an average afternoon stroll!!!

On subsequent trails again, we met with numerous Eles, Buff and another 2 lion sightings!

From the vehicle a few Leopard encounters were had and although not due to a lack of trying, the Pel’s Fishing Owl escaped us this month.

On one afternoon after a week of increasing humidity and 43◦C, a Cumulonimbus cloud built up into a massive thunderstorm which shed not a single drop on our camp (Limpopo-side) but poured 38mm on the Levuvhu side!

The subsequent disparate growth is remarkably noticeable as shrubs in blossom turned the barren landscape into a tapestry of yellows, whites and purples with concomitantly abundant fragrances!!!

I am really looking forward to return and keep track of all the floral development and the resultant effects such a localised deluge will have on the distribution and utilisation by various species.

Click here for details of the Kruger2Canyons.com Northern Wilderness Walking Safari.

Stay tuned for the next update from Paradise...

Labels: crooks corner, elephants, levuvhu, luvhuvhu, makuleke, northern kruger, northern wilderness walking safari, pafuri, trails, updates, walking trails

Sounds like the title of a song by Cliff Richard, but despite soft resonances of his voice floating in on a cool breeze of a summer holiday to your ears right now, the African sun at this time of year can be anything but soothing.

Ra, the sun-God of the ancient Egyptians, is making her re-appearance in full force, driving plants to awaken from their slumber and make food for the dry winter season far ahead.



The searing rays on a clear day penetrate almost through the leafy canopies of shady trees under which Impala or Kudu take refuge.

Driving through the bush during mid day I came across a herd of Elephant that had taken shelter under a tree, attempting to escape the heat radiating down furiously onto their unprotected backs.

Two young calves were sound asleep in the middle of the group, deeply protected amongst the legs of the adults in full, dark, relatively cool shade– all thirteen of them. The astonishing thing was that all fifteen elephant were huddled together under the canopy of the Shepherd’s Tree that cast a measly shadow of around only 12 square metres!

To experience raw nature, to feel her fury and simultaneously perceive her immense and incomprehensible beauty at the end of a summers’ day is to start feeling alive again. Especially with an iced Gin & Tonic at hand!

Rain has mostly been a mocking whisper on the October breezes, despite isolated falls on distant, most fortunate lands, the inhabitants of whom thus have reason to be jovial. Most bush inhabitants are waiting however for the heavens to open and release the stuff of life, that sweet silver liquid that sustains all.

In the meantime, the splendid and sometimes harsh scenes of the dry hot days play themselves out over the daily cycle of the savannah. Kudu, Impala and other water dependent antelope make daily forays to the often dwindling water sources, often running the gauntlet past awaiting predators, eager to pounce on any unsuspecting or non-vigilant individual.

It is a time approaching easier pickings for lions and leopard due to diminishing forage, and thus condition, of their herbivorous prey. Nature is a balancing act, never the same and always in incessant movement and counter adjustment.

Make a journey to a wild place. Bear witness, behold beauty and tragedy, feel pity and delight.

From someone who says it better than I can:

“What cause impels you to attempt the unknown paths?”
(Virgil- Aeneid)

Click here for the Rhino Plains Walking Safari.

Labels: levuvhu, luvhuvhu, makuleke, northern kruger, northern wilderness walking safari, pafuri, updates

According to an ancient Bushman legend, Giraffe was given the task of helping Sun find his way around the heavens. Giraffe took his job so seriously that the Creator rearranged a few stars in the sky to resemble a giraffe, in Giraffe’s honour. The Bushmen called the pattern Tutwa and they navigate by it. We call it the Southern Cross.

The legend sprang to mind when South African National Parks (SANParks) recently began restocking the Makuleke region of the Kruger National Park with wildlife, and started the project with giraffe.

Giraffe (and lion, rhino, wildebeest and even impala) disappeared from the area after the Makuleke community were forcibly removed from their land in 1969. This strip of land, which lies on the border between South Africa, Zimbabwe and Mozambique, was used as a buffer zone by the former South African Defence Force.

In 1998 the Makulekes became the first community in post-apartheid South Africa to get their land back in a formally protected reserve. They decided not to resettle on their ancestral land, but rather to let it remain part of the Kruger Park so they could earn benefits from commercial safari operators.

In 2003 the community signed an agreement with private company Wilderness Safaris to develop a series of lodges. This contract means that 24,000ha in the Pafuri sector in the north of the Kruger will be commercially developed over the next three years.

The gross income earned by the community will be approximately 50% of profits. Although there is a guaranteed minimum, “rental” will be linked to turnover. The Makulekes could earn some R44-million over the next 20 years, which will be administered by a trust.

Members of the Makuleke community are receiving training to fill positions in the camps, ranging from guides to cooks and management roles. Some 120 jobs are expected to be created in the lodges, anti-poaching and associated small businesses. About 70 local people are building the lodges.

Twenty community members have completed the most advanced field-ranger training course on offer in South Africa and a number of these candidates graduated recently. Wilderness Safaris is providing training for community members through an ecotraining camp set up in the Makuleke region.

The wildlife relocation is a joint project of SANParks and Wilderness Safaris. As the giraffes put their hooves on the Makuleke land, they also marked the first initiative within a contractual national park in South Africa where SANParks supports the establishment of a community-based field-ranging and anti-poaching unit.

Labels: makuleke, northern kruger, pafuri, SANParks

The Makuleke Community, in the north eastern region of Limpopo, who were awarded land in the Kruger National Park three years ago, through an historic restitution agreement, are in the news again.

After successfully opening a game lodge in the area, on behalf of the community, concessionaires Wilderness Safaris have now announced that a luxury tented camp is to be added to the existing accommodation facilities.

Spokesperson Peter Anderson says the planned Pafuri Camp, near the Luvhuvhu River, is scheduled to be completed during the next three months. A large slice of the profits from the new tourism facility will, like those generated by the existing lodge, be ploughed into community development projects in the Makuleke area.

The Makuleke/Pafuri area covers 24,000 hectares of some of the wildest and most scenic bushveld country in the entire Kruger National Park (KNP), including the legendary Crookes Corner, featured in TV Bulpin`s book "The Ivory Trail".

We are now featuring this stunning area in our Northern Wilderness Salking Safari.

The concession stretches from the Limpopo to the Luvhuvhu River. This area is right at the heart of the unfolding new Greater Limpopo Transfrontier Park, which links the Kruger National Park, Mozambique and Zimbabwe in a 3.5 million hectare conservancy.

The Makuleke area has been identified by environmentalists as Kruger`s best birding area, because many of the central African species find their way here. Elephant, nyala, lion, leopard and bushbuck are among the most common wildlife species encountered regularly in the densely wooded region.

The scenic beauty of the area adds value to any visitor`s stay, with soaring cliffs, deep gorges, centuries old forests and perennial rivers as the main features.

The tents at the Pafuri Camp will have en-suite facilities, and the concessionaires will offer dinner, bed and breakfast packages. Visitors will also have access to 4x4 and night drives, birding walks and mountain hiking with armed guides.

Labels: luvhuvhu, makuleke, northern kruger, pafuri

The upgraded Pafuri gate, which cost an estimated R2.5M, was officially opened yesterday, the Kruger National Park said.

The park`s executive director, Dr Bandile Mkhize, and the chief of the Makuleke tribe, Hosi Joas Makuleke, officiated.

The land was given back to the Makuleke tribe six years ago.

Mkhize said: "It gives me pleasure to formally open this facility and we trust that the development of this area will create a win-win relationship with everyone concerned".

The parks spokesman Raymond Travers said the upgrading of the Pafuri gate formed one component of a R40m make-over of the Kruger National Park.

This had been designed to ease access to the entire Greater Limpopo Transfrontier Park and would boost tourism, he said.

It will also make driving in to join our Northern Wilderness Walking Safari possible if you would prefer not to take advantage of a flight transfer.

Other developments in the pipeline include the upgrading of the Pafuri Border Post.

Labels: great limpopo park, greater limpopo park, makuleke, northern kruger, northern wilderness walking safari, pafuri, transfrontier park

The Greater Limpopo Transfrontier Park (GLTP) is poised to become the world's greatest animal kingdom and tourist attraction, bringing with it huge benefits for Africa's socio-economic growth.

Once the 10 million hectares GLTP has been opened, tourists from all over the world will wander across the borders of South Africa, Zimbabwe and Mozambique without any hassles while locals benefit from conservation-based activities.

Zibonele Ntuli visited Maputo, Mozambique, recently, where Environmental Affairs and Tourism Minister Mohammed Valli Moosa was addressing the GLTP ministerial committee, giving a progress report on developments at the park, and highlighting how it would benefit surrounding communities.

Perceived as one of the largest leading transfrontier parks in the world and a prime example of the emerging trend toward bioregional ecosystem management, the Park will integrate a number of national parks under an ecosystem-based management regime.

Eventually, it will link the 1.1 million hectare Limpopo National Park, formerly a hunting concession in Mozambique, the 2 million hectare world-renowned Kruger National Park in South Africa, and Zimbabwe's Gonarezhou National Park, Malapati Safari Area and Manjinji Pan Sanctuary (505,300ha) into one isolated transfrontier park.

It will be managed under a harmonising planning effort that will recognise the sovereignty of each country while acknowledging their mutual interests in conservation of their common natural heritage.

To date a lot of work has been done to put such ideas into practice.

As Minister Moosa confirms the establishment of such a world-class eco-tourism destination was not an overnight task. There is still a long way to go.

"It all started with the signing of a Memorandum of Understanding by the ministers from the three countries establishing a technical committee to plan for the eventual park, which was later followed by the signing of the treaty by our heads of states in Xai-Xai, in 2002," he explains.

Touching on the historic background of the park, Mr Moosa says the creation thereof was the product of years of sustainable conservation, following the dismal failure of the former regime to manage especially the elephants at the Kruger National Park.

Since his government took over in 1994, there has been a smooth management of elephants.

"During the apartheid years, the only way of managing elephants was to kill them until 1995 when the new government decided to stop the killing. One of the first things we did in establishing the GLTP was the translocation of elephants from South Africa to Mozambique."

He regards the move to relocate some of the elephants to Mozambique as depicting an end to division between countries in line with the vision of the African Union (AU), New Partnership for Africa's Development (Nepad), African Renaissance and the Southern African Development Community (SADC).

"We had to start inventing the idea of a transfrontier park, we were so fortunate that all three heads of state committed themselves to this, they had a vision to give birth to the idea long before this matter was discussed between them," he says.

He acknowledges that before the dawn democracy, South Africa did not enjoy the best of relations with its neighbouring countries, therefore the creation of the GLTP has served to unite them.

"South Africans turned their backs on hostility and wars, and vowed to live in peace. This tripartite alliance is about the people in three countries reaching out to each other," he says.

He says at least 15km of fence separating the Kruger National Park and the Limpopo National Park in Mozambique has already been removed, a large number of animals have been translocated, management has been put in place and infrastructure is in the process of being developed.

Another 120km of fence will be removed soon.

South Africa has injected R40 million towards infrastructure costs such as removing the fence, and the building of a new border post- being developed specifically to service internal movement within the park.

"We have contributed no less than R40 million to the project to enhance this regional socio-economic development initiative and we are happy that our trans-border eco-tourism drive flourished from this exercise."

He says such contribution strengthened the exchange of technical, scientific and legal information for the joint management of the ecosystems.

Within the transfrontier park, international borders will be nonexistent.

"In the longer term the periphery of the Great Limpopo Transfrontier will be fenced off to ensure that people and goods pass only through official border posts."

He says such cross border collaboration will give practical and valuable effect to the stated objectives of the SADC and Nepad, which is aimed at solely achieving this significant synergy.

The minister believes it is important to consult and involve all stakeholders in the planning and decision-making process.

"We must involve local communities and other key stakeholders in the monitoring and evaluation process.

"This involves the harmonisation of approaches to issues like natural resource management which include community-based natural resource management, harmonised approaches and procedures for private sector involvement in the projects, and encourage local investors to actively participate in these projects."

He believes that all three countries have the time and resources, and human capital to achieve the objectives they have set for themselves.

Though the minister is confident that the foundation laid is good enough for the park to work perfectly, he acknowledges serious challenges that still need to be addressed.

In some parts of the Limpopo National Park, many issues ranging from a lack of wildlife and basic infrastructure to community related issues must be attended to.

At least 3,000 animals are needed in those parts.

It is in this regard that the governments involved are undertaking a programme to introduce certain animal species.

Mining is regarded as one of the major challenges for both Mozambique and Zimbabwe.

Landmines must be cleared to make the nearby Sengwe corridor a strategic link.

In addition to all these problems, there are still another 6,000 communities that are living in some parts of the Limpopo National Park which has caused "animal-human" conflicts.

Removing them from the land they call home was met with resistance in the past, however as Mr Moosa says the communities' active involvement in the park will make life easy.

"Communities want to be actively involved. We must capitalise on what they are willing to offer including access to information, strategic decision-making process, access to land, labour, agriculturally based arts, crafts, and construction material," he explains.

People living within the park currently face high levels of poverty, unemployment, and illiteracy.

However, they are set to obtain preferential access in any employment opportunities that will arise from the development of the park.

Passionate about conservation, Mr Moosa affirms he will continue to champion conservation regardless of his retirement this year from politics.

"I think everybody has a role and responsibility towards nature as the economic and social well being is based on the use of natural resources," he says.

He believes that one does not need to earn a salary while contributing towards nature conservation.

Upon completion, the GLTP will offer tourists a range of adventures and attractions in addition to the spectacular big five.

Over 116 species of reptiles, 34 species of frogs and 49 different fish including the rare lungfish will be found at the Park.

Some 500 species of birds are also found in the Park while the nearby wetlands offer 'feathered five' possibilities with wild ostrich, pygmy goose and wattled cranes among the unusual sightings.

The northern portions of the park, home to more than half of the 2,000 plant species, provide ample habitat for woodlands antelopes.

"We cannot fail, we must not fail, the challenge lies ahead in our collective courage to get to the plough and work," implores the Minister.

Labels: gonarezhou, great limpopo park, greater limpopo park, makuleke, northern kruger