Kruger2Canyons.com

safaris  |  travel guide  |  contact us

... the bush, done properly   

BBC Tracks Mac the Elephant's Mating Migration

Steve and Michelle Henley have been following the progress of male tusker Mac in his annual migration from the far north of the Kruger into the Private Game Reserves of the sougth in search of a mate.

Part of BBC Radio 4's World on the Move programme, you can read the reports of this epic musth-inspired trek online on the BBC website.

We will see if we can't catch up with Steve and Michelle at the end of the series and have a chat about what is a fabulous wilderness tracking exercise.

Labels: , , ,

News From Paradise- A Pafuri Update

Wow!!! What a month it has been!!!

Despite (or maybe because of) the incredibly, dry and hot conditions the game activity and viewing has surpassed any other month we have had this season!

Temperatures have started soaring into the high 30’s and low to mid 40’s for weeks on end with only the occasional threat of thunderstorms, not forthcoming.

While hot gusts of wind and dust-devils send waves and columns of parched topsoil and ash skyward in an attempt to coax tears from the threatening Cumulonimbus clouds, all await the much needed relief expectantly.

Blessed with the cleanest river in Kruger, the Levuvhu, at least surface water offers some compensation in slaking thirsts and endowing the immediately surrounding vegetation with a cool green cap, appreciated by both beast and man.

Due to this, just a short stroll along the banks of the Levuvhu enables us to be privy to an unprecedented diversity of species and their respective interactions.

Following are some accounts of our experiences in the far north of the Kruger...

As to be expected for this time of the season, a multitude of elephant are present on the concession utilising the almost dozen natural fountains and Levuvhu River.



Fever-trees and other Acacia species are hardest hit during this period as each adult pachyderm consumes 175-250kg of vegetation, daily!!! Walking through any of the fever-tree-forests along both Limpopo and Levuvhu rivers, dramatically demonstrates the history of the “battle of the trunks”. Heavy utilisation has offset vertically orientated yellowy-green barked trunks with almost as many horizontal ones.

Quite a few “arrivals” on the birding front provided for some excitement.

European and Carmine Bee-eaters, Broad-billed Rollers, Spurwinged goose, African- Redchested- Klaas’s and Diederik Cuckoo. We were also treated to a Bat hawk circling above our heads while witnessing a spectacular sunset and rising full-moon over Lanner Gorge.

As far as reptiles go, things are becoming quite active! Mambas, spitting-cobras, green-snakes, pythons and boomslang have regularly been seen.

On one particular morning, in camp, we noticed a small Mozambican Spitting Cobra heading towards one of the massive Nyala-berry trees. As it was scaling the trunk, there was a brief encounter with a seemingly slightly larger, Natal Green-snake. Some of the guests saw the cobra delivering a lightning bite which resulted in the green-snake’s death.

As we stood watching, the cobra closed in on its prey and seemed to “measure” it prior to, starting at the head, swallow it!!! Aghast, we observed the rhythmical contractions as the cobra “walked” its fangs alternating left and right along consuming the green-snake.

With all the attention, the cobra retreated into a small burrow under the roots and disappeared. We all left the scene and were still trying to “digest” what we saw, when 5 minutes later the cobra emerged from its hide-out and proceeded to regurgitate the whole green-snake, and then leaving it there, moved away at a leisurely pace.

Did we disturb it? Not likely as it swallowed it while we were watching after which we departed.

Were its eyes larger than its stomach? Possibly as the green-snake did appear to be slightly longer than its predator. An unresolved mystery.

BIG FIVE


How much closer?... Is it safe?... Do you think they will make an attempt to take down one of the buffalo?... What if they see us?....

These were some of the questions rushing through our thoughts, perched atop a steep bank of the Levuvhu whilst watching a herd of 200+ Buffalo cross from South to North with two lionesses paying close attention to their every step.

The day started with a departure from camp at 04h30 in the morn.

Our mission was to cover the 15-18km from Mangala (60min drive from camp) to Crook’s Corner along the Levuvhu, on foot.

As the sun’s head appeared through the massive grove of Ana-trees, we departed on our sojourn and within 30 minutes encountered the first breeding-herd of ele. Making some adjustments to our route we managed to view and pass the eles without incurring their awareness of our presence.

The day was warming exponentially as we were approaching a regular sighting-hot-spot along the river.

Cupping our hands to training our ears, a rush of splashing hooves up ahead, warned us of the herd of buff crossing the river. With a quick assessment of the wind, cover and escape-routes we moved ahead cautiously to position ourselves on the high Northern bank of the river.

Perfectly placed in a little enclave and well hidden by thick shrubs we were safe and had a spectacular view of mothers with calves and towards the back some very large bulls, hesitantly walking through the foot-deep water. Sitting down to not get seen by the buff we got comfortable and revelled in the spectacle.

“There is a lion!!!”- pointing across the river someone has spotted a lioness stealthily slinking along the southern bank, her eyes fixed on the buffalo. “Ssshhhh! Sit absolutely still and don’t make any unnecessary movement or noise! We don’t want her to become aware of our presence as this will spoil the whole affair!”.

As everyone settled down, ”There’s another one!!!!”- “Sssshhhh!”. Two lionesses on the hunt and we are witnessing all of this without the comfortable safety of a vehicle!!!

By now some of the buff have crossed to our side and started walking and grazing quite close to where we were sitting! As the wind was in our favour still, we remained and by moving we would alert the lions and spoil a potential meal.

Although we were basically surrounded by buffalo and had 2 lionesses about 60m from us, we were not in any danger from the buff as being seated on the steep bank, we could just drop 2m down onto a safe ledge and the lions were on the opposite bank with more than enough space and escape-routes.

Suddenly we saw lioness go into stalk-mode! A waterbuck bull was standing on the bank under a Natal-mahogany tree, oblivious to their presence.

Slowly she edged forward but the bull became suspicious and moved off, then not 5 minutes later a huge Nyala-bull appeared on the bank and the other lioness started stalking!

Our anticipation reached breaking-point when she surged forward, not 15m from the bull! It was like watching a National Geographic documentary! A mixed sigh of disappointed relief escaped from everyone as the Nyala bolted off leaving the lioness in the dust! Wow!!!

Again their attention returned to the buff.

By now the front-line of bovids have passed within 15m of us and ended up catching our scent as they wandered down-wind from our hide. Uncertain of our exact location they started bundling together and snorting made a hasty retreat to thence they came.

Running 30m, they settled down and started returning as if they were in denial only to smell us again. This time they thought it wise to cross back over the river, straight back to the lionesses now observing from the shade of a cluster of Large Feverberries.

We lost visual contact with the lions as they skulked away further from the bank, no doubt looking for any opportunity to make a meal of one of the calves.

I felt bad that our presence had caused the alteration of the herds’ route but due to circumstances it was prudent to remain hidden rather than expose ourselves, besides how often are you presented with an opportunity to bear witness to something of this magnitude with a rifle rather than a remote in your hand?!!!!

Continuing our Eastward press we encountered another herd of 200+ Buff, 4 separate herds of Ele (one herd surprised us during a water-break!), a few Ele bulls, a Nyala killed by a Leopard and a Narina Trogon! Not an average afternoon stroll!!!

On subsequent trails again, we met with numerous Eles, Buff and another 2 lion sightings!

From the vehicle a few Leopard encounters were had and although not due to a lack of trying, the Pel’s Fishing Owl escaped us this month.

On one afternoon after a week of increasing humidity and 43◦C, a Cumulonimbus cloud built up into a massive thunderstorm which shed not a single drop on our camp (Limpopo-side) but poured 38mm on the Levuvhu side!

The subsequent disparate growth is remarkably noticeable as shrubs in blossom turned the barren landscape into a tapestry of yellows, whites and purples with concomitantly abundant fragrances!!!

I am really looking forward to return and keep track of all the floral development and the resultant effects such a localised deluge will have on the distribution and utilisation by various species.

Click here for details of the Kruger2Canyons.com Northern Wilderness Walking Safari.

Stay tuned for the next update from Paradise...

Labels: , , , , , , , , , ,

Red October- An Update From The Bush

Sounds like the title of a song by Cliff Richard, but despite soft resonances of his voice floating in on a cool breeze of a summer holiday to your ears right now, the African sun at this time of year can be anything but soothing.

Ra, the sun-God of the ancient Egyptians, is making her re-appearance in full force, driving plants to awaken from their slumber and make food for the dry winter season far ahead.



The searing rays on a clear day penetrate almost through the leafy canopies of shady trees under which Impala or Kudu take refuge.

Driving through the bush during mid day I came across a herd of Elephant that had taken shelter under a tree, attempting to escape the heat radiating down furiously onto their unprotected backs.

Two young calves were sound asleep in the middle of the group, deeply protected amongst the legs of the adults in full, dark, relatively cool shade– all thirteen of them. The astonishing thing was that all fifteen elephant were huddled together under the canopy of the Shepherd’s Tree that cast a measly shadow of around only 12 square metres!

To experience raw nature, to feel her fury and simultaneously perceive her immense and incomprehensible beauty at the end of a summers’ day is to start feeling alive again. Especially with an iced Gin & Tonic at hand!

Rain has mostly been a mocking whisper on the October breezes, despite isolated falls on distant, most fortunate lands, the inhabitants of whom thus have reason to be jovial. Most bush inhabitants are waiting however for the heavens to open and release the stuff of life, that sweet silver liquid that sustains all.

In the meantime, the splendid and sometimes harsh scenes of the dry hot days play themselves out over the daily cycle of the savannah. Kudu, Impala and other water dependent antelope make daily forays to the often dwindling water sources, often running the gauntlet past awaiting predators, eager to pounce on any unsuspecting or non-vigilant individual.

It is a time approaching easier pickings for lions and leopard due to diminishing forage, and thus condition, of their herbivorous prey. Nature is a balancing act, never the same and always in incessant movement and counter adjustment.

Make a journey to a wild place. Bear witness, behold beauty and tragedy, feel pity and delight.

From someone who says it better than I can:

“What cause impels you to attempt the unknown paths?”
(Virgil- Aeneid)

Click here for the Rhino Plains Walking Safari.

Labels: , , , , , ,

Giraffes Restock Makuleke

According to an ancient Bushman legend, Giraffe was given the task of helping Sun find his way around the heavens. Giraffe took his job so seriously that the Creator rearranged a few stars in the sky to resemble a giraffe, in Giraffe’s honour. The Bushmen called the pattern Tutwa and they navigate by it. We call it the Southern Cross.

The legend sprang to mind when South African National Parks (SANParks) recently began restocking the Makuleke region of the Kruger National Park with wildlife, and started the project with giraffe.

Giraffe (and lion, rhino, wildebeest and even impala) disappeared from the area after the Makuleke community were forcibly removed from their land in 1969. This strip of land, which lies on the border between South Africa, Zimbabwe and Mozambique, was used as a buffer zone by the former South African Defence Force.

In 1998 the Makulekes became the first community in post-apartheid South Africa to get their land back in a formally protected reserve. They decided not to resettle on their ancestral land, but rather to let it remain part of the Kruger Park so they could earn benefits from commercial safari operators.

In 2003 the community signed an agreement with private company Wilderness Safaris to develop a series of lodges. This contract means that 24,000ha in the Pafuri sector in the north of the Kruger will be commercially developed over the next three years.

The gross income earned by the community will be approximately 50% of profits. Although there is a guaranteed minimum, “rental” will be linked to turnover. The Makulekes could earn some R44-million over the next 20 years, which will be administered by a trust.

Members of the Makuleke community are receiving training to fill positions in the camps, ranging from guides to cooks and management roles. Some 120 jobs are expected to be created in the lodges, anti-poaching and associated small businesses. About 70 local people are building the lodges.

Twenty community members have completed the most advanced field-ranger training course on offer in South Africa and a number of these candidates graduated recently. Wilderness Safaris is providing training for community members through an ecotraining camp set up in the Makuleke region.

The wildlife relocation is a joint project of SANParks and Wilderness Safaris. As the giraffes put their hooves on the Makuleke land, they also marked the first initiative within a contractual national park in South Africa where SANParks supports the establishment of a community-based field-ranging and anti-poaching unit.

Labels: , , ,

Poaching Rife in new Limpopo Park

The Pafuri-Banyini pan in South Africa's north-eastern Kruger National Park teems with game. Elephant bulls amble among clumps of marula trees and impala leap gracefully across the grassland, where buffalo graze.

Located in the triangle between the Limpopo and Luvuvhu rivers where South Africa, Zimbabwe and Mozambique meet, the pan is more than an idyllic corner of the Kruger park. It will ultimately lie at the heart of the Greater Limpopo Transfrontier Park. This conservation area will encompass 35,000 square kilometres, allowing animals to follow ancient migration routes between the Kruger Park in South Africa, the Limpopo National Park in Mozambique and Gonarezhou National Park in Zimbabwe.

The pressures that are being brought to bear on the pan are indicative of problems that the Transfrontier Park as a whole will have to grapple with- a matter of increasing importance as the deadline approaches for dropping another stretch of border fencing to create the conservation area.

The first section of fence to be taken down was a 15km strip in 2002, between Mozambique and South Africa- just north of where the Shingwedzi River enters the Kruger Park. This year, a 30km section of fence will be dropped south of the Shingwedzi- also between South Africa and Mozambique- after the presidents of Zimbabwe, South Africa and Mozambique open the border post at Giriyondo.

This post, between the Kruger and the Limpopo Parks, is the first to be opened under the Transfrontier Park initiative. The ceremony is scheduled to take place in October.

Jack Greef, a former special forces operative who has worked in wildlife security in Angola, the Democratic Republic of Congo, Mozambique and Tanzania- and who now runs a crack ranger unit in the Kruger National Park- believes dropping the fence without beefing up patrols on both sides of the border will worsen poaching.

Reports have already surfaced of rhino poachers from Mozambique driving into the Kruger park through areas where the first section of fencing was dismantled. And, even though the Pafuri-Banyini pan lies some way north of Giriyondo- where the next stretch of fence is to come down- poachers are already taking a toll in the area.

"Zimbabweans cross the river, lay snares and sell bush meat in the villages in South Africa. Then they buy groceries here to take back to Zimbabwe," Greef said during a visit to the pan, pointing to one of several well-trodden footpaths leading to the Limpopo River.

In May, Greef's team of eight rangers found 79 snares at a spring near the Pafuri gate into the Kruger that had been set three nights before. By the time they reached the scene, a buffalo calf, hyena and impala had been killed.

"If we hadn't detected these snares, it would have been a slaughter house," said patrol leader Prison Manganye.

Two months later, Kruger rangers caught a poacher transporting 129 genet skins by car from the Mozambican border post at Pafuri to the Punda Maria gate into the Kruger park.

"That's virtually the entire population of genets along the Limpopo," noted Greef.

Mozambican park official Hernando Vukeya said 36 poachers armed with AK47 assault rifles have been arrested in the district during the past five years. Most were war veterans turned poachers. But, he said, the situation is under control.

"We are dealing with poaching very efficiently here."

There are currently about 70 rangers in mobile units in the Limpopo National Park who are in radio contact with their counterparts in the Kruger.

"Generally bigger is better," Greef concluded at his headquarters. "And with increased cross-border cooperation between ranger units, we can catch more poachers who escape by slipping across the border."

But, he is not as sanguine about the situation as Vukeya is.

Poaching is only part of the problem, however.

Just 30km east of Pafuri-Banyini pan, in the Limpopo National Park, lies Shikumba village: one of a string of settlements along the Limpopo River housing up to 20 000 people.

Inhabitants of these villages have refused to move elsewhere.

"We debated this issue and decided we would rather be fenced in and stay here," said Maria Nyampuli, one of the villagers. "We are not happy about it, it but we will adhere to the law."

However, certain villagers have also threatened to take up arms if the number of elephant in their area increases as a result of park fences being taken down. Elephant may kill people or trample crops, no small matter for communities that rely on subsistence farming for their survival.

"People were saying to me, 'We hear on the radio they will move elephants in here. If the animals come, we will take them out,'" says an ecologist who conducted field work in the area. "It's a war zone out there."

Given the number of weapons that are in circulation in the aftermath of Mozambique's 16-year civil war, the villagers' threats cannot be taken lightly.

"This place is awash with guns from the war, including AK47s," said a South African police inspector at the Pafuri border post. "You will see what happens if you try to force them to move."

Steve Collins, a development worker with extensive experience of communities living next to parks, is also concerned.

"Community development issues have become secondary to conservation," he said. "This is colonialism by conservationists."

Nyampuli and her family members were among thousands who fled the area next to the Limpopo during the war, some going as far as Johannesburg. Many returned when the conflict ended in 1992. By then, trading stores established by Portuguese colonists had been burned down and most game had been slaughtered and eaten. The only means of survival for people in Shikumba and neighbouring villages is farming, but drought has pushed them to the edge of starvation.

"There's no rain," sighed Nyampuli. "Only hunger."

Villagers acknowledge that the transfrontier park may help them escape poverty -- even if it also causes headaches in terms of incoming elephants.

"If it can give our children jobs, if it gives us water and arable lands, then we support it," said one inhabitant of the area, pushing his bicycle down a deeply rutted track that passes for a road.

However, a community in South Africa is less optimistic about the eventual benefits of the Transfrontier conservation area.

The Makuleke ethnic group is the first community to have won back land in one of the country's national parks, under a restitution system that was set up to assist people who were forced off their land during colonialism and apartheid.

It now leases this land to lodge operators, including Wilderness Safaris, with substantial revenues flowing back into the community. The Makuleke are concerned their animals will be poached when they wander into Mozambique and Zimbabwe.

"We need to come up with programmes of direct benefit to communities in Zimbabwe and Mozambique," said community spokesperson Lamson Maluleke, who also complains that the Makuleke have not been adequately involved in decisions about the regional park.

However, the Peace Parks Foundation- which originated the idea of the Transfrontier conservation area- insists that community benefits lie at the heart of its work.

The foundation is based in Stellenbosch, in the southern part of South Africa. It was founded in 1997 to help create cross-border parks and promote regional stability. The foundation assists governments to create these conservation areas by securing grants from donor agencies.

To date, six Transfrontier parks have been established, all in Southern Africa, but there are plans to expand the concept throughout the continent.

The Limpopo villagers, says Ari van Wyk- transfrontier park coordinator in Mozambique- will probably stay in the park, but be allocated hunting quotas.

"There will always be subsistence hunting when people are hungry," he said.

As the amount of game circulating between Kruger and the Limpopo parks increases with the dropping of fences, Limpopo villagers may find that their settlements fall within migration routes. With this in mind, a grant of about $8.7-million has been provided by France to relocate villagers to the edges of game corridors- and to provide them with irrigation systems.

Another group of people inhabiting the Limpopo National Park- 6,000 people living in eight villages along the Shingwedzi River- will benefit from a grant of about $7.5-million made available by the German government.

Part of these funds will be used to establish an irrigation scheme outside the park where soils are better, says Van Wyk, by way of an incentive to get villagers to leave the conservation area.

"Most have already accepted resettlement because they live in remote areas without services," he noted. Resettlement is expected to take three to five years.

In addition, certain camps for tourists in the Mozambican section of the Transfrontier park are to be run by villagers.

"We have calculated Limpopo has a carrying capacity of about 1,000 beds for 300,000 potential visitors a year," Peace Parks Foundation chief executive Willem van Riet said. "That translates to about 3,000 jobs."

According to Van Riet, the Limpopo National Park has already created 250 jobs where previously there were none.

Maluleke's concerns about Zimbabwe are echoed among staffers at the Peace Parks Foundation, however.

The country has become increasingly isolated over the past five years, in the wake of a controversial programme of farm seizures, and three elections marred by allegations of human rights abuse and vote rigging. These events have taken their toll on Zimbabwe's economy, creating mass unemployment and triple-digit inflation. Certain Zimbabweans have turned to poaching in a bid to make ends meet.

"Until Zimbabwe comes back into the fold, nothing will happen there because donors are not going to put up money," said Van Riet.

Wildlife operators such as Wilderness Safaris acknowledge that communities living alongside and in the parks will have to be catered for by the transfrontier initiative if it is to succeed. For all this, the park remains an ideal tourism opportunity for them.

"Eventually you will be able to visit three national parks in three different countries without a passport as long as you exit on your side," said Gary van Rensburg, manager of the newest Wilderness Safaris lodge, which opened at Pafuri last month. "That's really attractive from a tourism point of view- and we're right at the centre of it."

Read more about the Greater Limpopo Transfrontier Park here.

Labels: , , , , , ,

New Makuleke Tourism Development

The Makuleke Community, in the north eastern region of Limpopo, who were awarded land in the Kruger National Park three years ago, through an historic restitution agreement, are in the news again.

After successfully opening a game lodge in the area, on behalf of the community, concessionaires Wilderness Safaris have now announced that a luxury tented camp is to be added to the existing accommodation facilities.

Spokesperson Peter Anderson says the planned Pafuri Camp, near the Luvhuvhu River, is scheduled to be completed during the next three months. A large slice of the profits from the new tourism facility will, like those generated by the existing lodge, be ploughed into community development projects in the Makuleke area.

The Makuleke/Pafuri area covers 24,000 hectares of some of the wildest and most scenic bushveld country in the entire Kruger National Park (KNP), including the legendary Crookes Corner, featured in TV Bulpin`s book "The Ivory Trail".

We are now featuring this stunning area in our Northern Wilderness Salking Safari.

The concession stretches from the Limpopo to the Luvhuvhu River. This area is right at the heart of the unfolding new Greater Limpopo Transfrontier Park, which links the Kruger National Park, Mozambique and Zimbabwe in a 3.5 million hectare conservancy.

The Makuleke area has been identified by environmentalists as Kruger`s best birding area, because many of the central African species find their way here. Elephant, nyala, lion, leopard and bushbuck are among the most common wildlife species encountered regularly in the densely wooded region.

The scenic beauty of the area adds value to any visitor`s stay, with soaring cliffs, deep gorges, centuries old forests and perennial rivers as the main features.

The tents at the Pafuri Camp will have en-suite facilities, and the concessionaires will offer dinner, bed and breakfast packages. Visitors will also have access to 4x4 and night drives, birding walks and mountain hiking with armed guides.

Labels: , , ,

New R2.5M Kruger Gate Opens

The upgraded Pafuri gate, which cost an estimated R2.5M, was officially opened yesterday, the Kruger National Park said.

The park`s executive director, Dr Bandile Mkhize, and the chief of the Makuleke tribe, Hosi Joas Makuleke, officiated.

The land was given back to the Makuleke tribe six years ago.

Mkhize said: "It gives me pleasure to formally open this facility and we trust that the development of this area will create a win-win relationship with everyone concerned".

The parks spokesman Raymond Travers said the upgrading of the Pafuri gate formed one component of a R40m make-over of the Kruger National Park.

This had been designed to ease access to the entire Greater Limpopo Transfrontier Park and would boost tourism, he said.

It will also make driving in to join our Northern Wilderness Walking Safari possible if you would prefer not to take advantage of a flight transfer.

Other developments in the pipeline include the upgrading of the Pafuri Border Post.

Labels: , , , , , ,