The density of the bush was unnerving, as were the mounds of fresh steaming elephant dung. A few rootling warthogs were surprised by our quiet approach and dashed up a rocky outcrop.
A troop of cheeky chacma baboons (Papio ursinus) barked, while vervets casually leapt about in the fever trees.
Loud rustling alerted our group to an elephant feeding some 20m away: soon we spotted another two that were even closer. One nonchalantly walked onto the track. Fortunately, they seemed unperturbed by our presence.
Continuing cautiously, we came across another group feeding and enjoyed this rare privilege of seeing all the sights of Africa from the saddle.
In mid-August a group of 105 cyclists set off on the first five-day
Transfrontier cycle tour through the Greater Limpopo Peace Park which straddles Mozambique, Zimbabwe and South Africa.
Armed with little except our grit, determination and a keen sense of adventure, we intrepid cyclists and our 80-member back-up team (with 100 tons of water and camping equipment) battled across 336km of sand sea and bushveld koppies, braving close encounters with some of Africa's larger fauna.
Apart from offering a rare experience of cycling through two countries, the event enabled all participants to contribute to two charities- the Peace Parks Foundation and Children in the Wilderness Programme- making our efforts seem all the more worthwhile.
Promising more chances of seeing the Big Five than probably any other bike ride ever, the route followed the largely inaccessible Limpopo National Park in Mozambique and then through the
Makuleke/Pafuri region of northern
Kruger National Park in
South Africa.
The border post between Mozambique and South Africa at Giriyondo marked the official start of the ride. As border posts went, this had to be the most informal I have ever crossed. Simply, there wasn't one.
We braved close encounters with some of Africa's larger fauna
We filled in forms and wandered between the farm-style gate separating South Africa from Mozambique.
Ready to ride, we assembled in our pre-assigned groups of between eight and 12 cyclists with our own back-up 4-x-4 that was to follow us through the full 336km of wilderness.
Soon we were barrelling along rocky service roads that quickly degenerated into mostly disused jeep tracks. My team's energetic start was quickly overshadowed by vast stretches of sand that caused many a pile-up.
We soon spotted the first of many strategically placed tea stops. Savouring the dappled shade cast by mopane trees, we happily shovelled in vast quantities of banana bread and jelly babies while knocking back cups of tea and coffee.
Through sand, dust and bushveld all the way, we pedalled on with renewed vigour. The presence of pachyderms was very evident in the trashed trees and dung mounds.
The riding became rockier as the road veered south-east towards the Massingir Dam where we made our first camp.
It looked as though we were arriving at a battle encampment, with 80 tents and one large Arabian-style canopy erected on the banks of a dry riverbed, surrounded by baobabs.
Like successful warriors we sped into camp with a final burst of energy, knowing that a feast awaited us.
After a gruelling day's cycling, we could always de-grime ourselves, enjoy the sunset with iced drinks and marvellous massages, and then relish yet another delectable meal.
This would never have been possible without the back-up team, who managed our campsite set-up on all four days, including the transport of our gourmet caterers, tables, chairs, bike repairs, ice-making machines, and even a hot-and-cold-water shower system. This was luxury camping.
After waking to freshly baked muffins and steaming Maltabela porridge, we put our feet to the pedal, cycling up some rolling koppies that gradually took us onto a plateau overlooking a mopane-forested plain.
This viewpoint coincided with one of our morning tea stops. From here we all got a decent dose of adrenaline bouncing down rocky hills.
After a relaxing lunch of baguettes near a small stream, the road degenerated into sand, which continued for the next 20km. Irate, my "team" swore their way through it all. I was responsible for more than a few pile-ups where a forced mid-pedal stop no doubt comes as more of a surprise to those on your tail.
On a more positive note, we were all becoming far fitter and more skilled at sand-riding techniques.
Only later was it revealed that we had taken a wrong turn and added an extra 20km of soft sand to our ordeal. But how could we really complain when we had ice in our drinks and peri-peri potato wedges?
I asked Colin Bell of Wilderness Safaris, the sponsors, how this cycle tour had come about: "The motivation was to raise funds for Children in the Wilderness.
"The Pafuri camp was on the go, so we thought of a combined fundraising effort for the charities. This appeared to be a win-win situation."
Following the Limpopo River, we passed through little mud-hut villages with children waving enthusiastically at every turn.
Refuelling at the local pub and store in Chitango village, I slurped on Mozambique's Maca-Mahon brew, condensed milk and Coke, and enjoyed conversations with the locals in my bad Portuguese.
This time we set off, accompanied by Antonio and Miguel, two zealous locals on their single-geared bikes, passing en route 105 freshly laundered, white cycling shirts flapping in the wind outside a missionary church.
We battled through sandy stretches, but Miguel and Antonio were sand cyclists of note - swerving, balancing and keeping up with the group.
We calculated it was 68km later when we arrived at a spectacular campsite set up by the Limpopo river.
Hannele Steyn-Kotze, retired South African mountain bike champion, provided us with useful advice on relevant stuff such as the "techniques of sand-cycling" and how to make 80 descents look easy.
As the sun slipped over the Limpopo horizon and the tinkle of goat bells filled the warm evening air, little did I anticipate that the best was still to come.
Crossing back into South Africa at the Pafuri border post, we arrived at "Crooks Corner", where Zimbabwe, South Africa and Mozambique all meet.
The area is known as the Land of the Giants because the riverine, fever-tree, lala-palm and mopane forests are all unusually tall and often outgrow the average baobab.
A group of 40 breeding elephants had been sighted an hour before our arrival.
Warnings were not needed: we slowed to a snail's pace. Soon we stumbled across some hippos lying in tributaries of the Limpopo. Then, as the cry of fish eagles filled the air, we cautiously entered a fever-tree forest filled with jumpy impala and nyala herds.
Soon afterwards we stumbled upon the group of elephants.
Enjoying a final 42km through some of the most scenic parts of the cycle - rocky steep koppies, grasslands, lala-palm and baobab forests, we completed the tour at the Pafuri gate of the Kruger Park without any casualties, apart from a few roasties and ripped tyres.
Looking back, this seemed even more remarkable, considering we had just cycled through an International Big Five Wilderness area.
The organisers, Wilderness Safaris, proudly revealed that the tour had raised more than R360,000 for the charities followed by R30,000 more for the completion of a village clinic.
Another R17,000 was added from an auctioned cycle shirt signed by Jan Ulrich. He could not join the tour this year, but word is his chances for next year are looking very good.
Click here for the Independent article.
Read more
about mountain biking in the Kruger Park here.
Read more
about the Greater Limpopo Transfrontier Park here.
Labels: activities, giriyondo, great limpopo park, greater limpopo park, transfrontier park